New Puppy?

It’s that time of the year again. Many have brought a new four legged household member into their homes and with them comes joy, fun and a whole sleuth of responsibilities. Whether this is the first dog or you have already owned a dog before, things may be a bit different this time around. Here are some tips on how to enjoy each other’s company and getting the best start in your life as a dog owner.


Oh, those puppy antics!


Having your cute little puppy turn into a landshark is a common issue, most puppy owners find. It is extremely rare that this behavior points towards aggression. The vast majority of dogs this age are playing and soothing their teeth. Just like babies, they test everything with their mouth (well, they don’t have hands, so how else are they going to find out about the world?) and puppy teeth can be quite sharp and painful. Some breeds are mouthier than others and while it’s a normal behavior, we do not need to lend ourselves to be walking bite toys. Many training tips are being passed around online, some effective, some not so much. Here are the effective ones:

– Trade your hand/leg/foot with a suitable toy for your dog to chew on. As sharp as they are, puppy teeth are not quite as hard as adult dogs’ teeth, so things like hard bones (always raw!) are not a good fit – neither are raw hides or Nylabones. Plush toys can be great, just know, that you will have that stuffing flying around soon – also be careful to supervise the party, so your little one doesn’t swallow the squeaker.

Fresh Carrotts are a healthy and low calories snack

– Help soothing those teeth with some treats. Frozen carrots, stuffed and frozen Kongs (natural yogurt is a great and inexpensive stuffing), frozen watermelon… it not only helps with the teething pain, it also keeps the pup busy for a while.

– Start training! If your dog is in a sit or a down, it won’t be able to bite you. Carry treats with you and use those to either gently guide your pup into a sit, then reward, or capture the moment, when your dog sits by itself and reward that. Have your dog sit for everything – food, toys, attention and soon, that sit comes naturally as an alternative behavior. We’ll go over some other great ‘tricks’ for puppies below.

– Whatever  you do, stay calm. Yelling and screaming is either enticing  your dog to play the fun ‘I’m going to catch and bite you‘ game or have your pup fearfully cowering in a corner, being afraid of you. Both are potential outcomes, that we want to avoid. Inflicting fear or even worse – pain – can alter your puppy’s mental growth at that delicate stage and you might end up with an aggressive or fearful dog later on. So just say no to kicking, yelling and screaming. It isn’t effective. Instead redirect calmly and reward positive behavior.

– If you have young kids, things can be a bit tricky, since it’s so much fun to romp around with a dog, but this may also trigger the play biting. Kids may not necessarily understand, that this is an involuntary behavior from the dog and, especially, if they are little, may get hurt. If your dog has no issues with kids, there is no need to separate them, but you always have to closely supervise the play and remind kids to stay calm. Throw a toy or treats instead of running around with the dog.


Jumping up on people is a similar behavior as the biting. It comes naturally for the dog, especially a puppy. Some people encourage it, some don’t want it to happen. It certainly isn’t funny, if a dog jumps on a small child, elderly person or simply a stranger. Here’s where a good, solid ‘sit‘ comes into play. Again, if your dog sits, it can’t jump. Work on that sit and reward good behavior. Make sure, you work on that outside of your house, too. Consistency is important. Invite a friend over as a ‘stranger’ and work on that sit and not jumping with your dog (maybe provide a glass of wine or some cookies for your friend). Don’t kick your dog or have a ‘stranger’ kick your dog. As your dog is already super excited, yelling and screaming will likely make it worse, too. Ask your friend to calmly ignore the dog until the dog sits. It may take some time and many repetitions, but it’s the start of a good solid obedience foundation, without risking fear or pain.


Many people can’t wait to start exercising with the dog – especially, when getting a dog in December, we want to extend our New Year resolutions towards our dogs and start that morning run with our four legged friend. After all – a tired pup is a good pup. While the latter is certainly true, you may want to take it slow. A dog’s growth plates (the area of growing tissue near the ends of the bones on each end of the bone) don’t close until around 1.8 year old, depending on the dog’s size. Smaller dogs typically are all grown a bit earlier than medium or bigger sized dogs. While the growth plates are still closing, heavy exercise is not a good idea. This means no forced cardio, no forced running and no forced jumping or any high impact activity. It is one thing, if the puppy decides to have the zoomies and zips and jumps around the backyard or the house, but having it jump over hurdles or taking it running next to your bike can seriously injure your dog and affect its health as an adult dog. There are many studies supporting a risk of dysplasia and CCL tears in puppies, who have been exercised too young.


This does not mean, that you have to wrap your dog in soft cushion and place it in a crate. Some exercise is of course great for any age! And we still want that tired puppy after all. You can (gently) play a good game of tug, throw the toy and have supervised puppy play dates with other dogs in similar age, size and energy level.

There are different opinions about taking puppies on walks. Short walks, about 5 minutes for every month of its life, about twice a day is a good rule. However, there is also the risk of Parvo, a particularly nasty and often deadly disease. So while walks around the house are probably ok, I would recommend against taking your pup to a public park until it is fully vaccinated against Parvo.

A game of chasing the laser pointer is also not recommended. Studies suggest, that the frustration of never being able to catch that laser light can mentally harm a dog and lead towards anxiety behavior. It can also harm a dog’s eyes.

While physical exercise is great and needed, most dogs also need mental stimulation. You won’t believe, how fast a puppy tires out after playing some hide and seek games with its favorite toy or treat throughout the house (though you want to avoid the stairs). Or do a simple and fun 5 minute obedience session, followed by some play time. Your pup will be tuckered out in no time and you will have done another step towards a good obedience foundation. There are some dog sports that can be started with a puppy already, for example K9 Nose Work.


Puppy Games

Here are some useful games and tricks to start your dog with a great and positive foundation of obedience. You won’t need anything other than a treat pouch and some high value treats (meaning, your dog will stop in its tracks to get that treat) preferably small and soft. I have found, that often tiny pieces of hot dogs or cheese work great. Keep those sessions short and fun. Don’t start, when you are already frustrated, in a rush or angry. You need to be calm and have fun. After all, that’s why you got a dog in the first place, isn’t it? Young dogs can’t concentrate for a long time, just like babies and toddlers. You can do several sessions a day, but don’t do them longer than about 5 minutes.

Yes, you will need a lot of treats in the beginning, but will soon start to wean them off, or, at the very least, not need to give as many. Once your dog reliably offers the correct behavior for a command, don’t put your hand into the treat pouch before the behavior occurs, once the dog offers the correct behavior, that’s when you can get that treat to reward your dog. That’s how you will start to wean your dog off treats (although I still like to reward dogs with treats unexpectedly).

– Focus

Getting your dog to focus on you helps not only to keep your pup out of trouble and makes walking on a lose leash easy, but also give you the opportunity to give a command while having your dog’s undivided attention. Anyone, who has ever tried to recall a dog while its chasing a rabbit down the hole, knows how important focus is.


Grab some treats and call your dog. The instant your dog looks at you, give a treat. Make sure, your dog looks at you (eye level) and not at the treat. If your dog happens to look at you without you calling your dog, still give a treat. Any focus on you should be rewarded.

– Sit

While ‘sit‘ doesn’t seem to be a super exciting trick, it is extremely useful. Making that sit a natural behavior keeps your dog from biting and jumping and other mischief. Use treats to gently guide your dog into a sit, only reward with said treat when your dog is in a sit position. Be careful not to sound like a broken record (‘sit, sit, sit, siiiiiit, sit, siiiiiit, sit!’) but to say the command only once. Try to get the behavior first before using a command at all. Have your dog sit for everything it wants – food, play, attention until it sits naturally, if it wants something. Once your dog sits reliably for the command, wait until it is in the sitting position before reaching into your treat pouch to give your dog a treat.

– Place

Use a towel or a dog bed for this nifty ‘trick’. Guide your dog on the towel or dog bed and reward once it is on there. The preferred position is a down, but I wouldn’t worry, if your dog just sits there. Give a couple of treats about 1 second apart, so your dog stays on there. Then increase the time between giving the treats, slowly. When your dog catches on and stays a couple of seconds between the treats, take a step back, then return to the ‘place’ and give another treat. Gradually increase the distance, but always go back to reward the dog, so your pup knows, that the treats will keep coming at the ‘place’. Eventually start sending your dog to the ‘place’, again by gradually increase the distance and reward, once your dog sits or downs on the towel or mat.

If your dog got this down, you can start moving the towel or the mat and continue that same exercise. This way, you can take the ‘place’ with you, if you go for a visit somewhere else.

This exercise is great for dogs, who want to be first at the door to greet (or bark at) visitors. It is also great for interrupting that biting and jumping, but don’t forget to keep those sessions short and fun. Eventually, you can give your dog a longer lasting treat on the ‘place’, such as a stuffed Kong or frozen carrot/apple/watermelon, etc.

– Come

This is the first step to one of the most important commands, the recall. Don’t ever chase your dog, if your dog runs from you, or scold it, when it comes back to you – most dogs have lots of fun, running from you – or they get scared, knowing, that you will chew them a new one, once you catch them. Instead start early and start at home. Call your dog’s name and as soon as your dog takes a step towards you, kneel down, throw a big party and give your dog a treat. You’ll never see a dog running towards you faster, than when you act as if you haven’t seen your dog for a year (and reward with a treat or two). Once your dog comes to you reliably (keep those treats coming), you can take your party outside. Start in your backyard first and repeat. Don’t call your dog, if it is checking out the neighbor’s cat or is otherwise distracted. Once your dog is reliable in your backyard, you can finally work outside of the house. Use a long line for safety, but try not to put any pressure on the leash.

– Crate

It is a good idea to teach your dog to relax in a crate. If your dog ever has an emergency, where a vet stay is needed, it’s nice, if the crate is already perceived as a safe place. Never use a crate as a punishment. Make it fun, feed your dog in the crate and leave the door open, so the dog can go in and out. Eventually, you can close the door for a second, open it again and give your dog a treat. Close the door again and slowly increase the time. After a while, you can start walking away from the crate with the door closed, come back, open the door and give a treat again.


Crate training is a great after-exercise or after-training activity, when your puppy is tired already. Get your dog in the crate, give a stuffed Kong or another longer lasting treat and let your dog relax in there. In most cases, you can also close the crate door. Try to go back and open the door before your dog starts whining.

Never let your kids go in the crate with your dog. The crate should be a safe place for the dog to go in and get away from anything, that bothers it.

Problematic behavior

It is always a great idea, to take some formal training, even if you already are dog experienced. You can usually get some good input and ideas and it’s a great social event for your dog – but especially if you have issues, that go beyond of what we were talking about here, don’t wait. Seek out a trainer, who has widely acknowledged credentials (e.g. CPDT) and/or titled sport or working personal dogs. Training doesn’t necessarily always have to be purely positive, but should be mostly. Prong and e-collars have no place on puppies. In fact, they are illegal in many countries for a reason. The least intrusive methods should be used, but your trainer should be flexible to accommodate what works best for you and your dog. Training isn’t instant gratification, it takes time to lay a good foundation. But it should always be fun for you and your dog. Use common sense and leave, if you find, that you and your dog are not having fun or if your dog is being jerked around.

Some Practical Tips


 There are more diets, brands and varieties of dog food than there are needles on a pine tree. It can be fun, shopping for our dogs, but it can also be overwhelming. While I will not recommend a specific type of food – every dog is different – I will say, that it is worth a lot to go with a high quality food. There are advantages and disadvantages both to raw, home cooked and dry/canned food and I won’t go into the details of a home prepared meal, but fact is, there are very good, wholesome kibbles available. Yes, they are likely more expensive and no, you will not find them at your supermarket. But with online stores and different pet stores around, they are still conveniently available. High quality dry food requires less feeding amounts, so a bag will last you longer – and in the long run, your dog will be healthier, requiring less vet visits. Check the ingredients of your dry food. Here is a website, that offers more information about labels as well as different brands of dog food:
Enjoying the meal
Also, watch the weight of your dog. More than 65% of dogs in the US are overweight. It’s not just unhealthy, it will shave off about 2 years of your dog’s life. This is a good overview on how your dog should look like: – a pet dog should be around 5, a sport or working dog around 4.


Dogs should never ride loose in a car. It is dangerous for the driver as well as for the dog. In case of an accident, a dog could not only be seriously injured, but also jump out of a broken window and run into the street. Keeping the dog secured either on a harness and seat belt or in a stable crate in the back ensures the safety of the driver, the dog and everyone else in the car.

Dog Etiquette

– Most of us live in an area with leash laws. This means, that by law, our dogs are on a 6 foot leash at all times. We can agree or disagree with this, but it’s the law. If something happens and a dog is either on a longer leash (e.g. fully extended flexi leash) or off leash, then that dog owner is at fault.

– Not every dog is fond of other dogs, just like not every person likes other people. Don’t let your dog run up to another dog without asking first. It is also polite to reel in your dog to your side when passing someone else, with or without dogs. Some people are very afraid of dogs. They may have had bad experiences in the past, dog bites or just plainly don’t like dogs. While this may be difficult for many of us to understand, it is certainly within their rights. So keep your dog at your side while walking past anyone, no matter, whether your dog is social or not. It’s not just good etiquette, it goes a long way to co-exist with non-dog owners and dog owners, who have dogs, that are not social.

– Pick up your dog’s poop. This is the law and it is also helps preventing the spreading of diseases like Parvo. Plus, those, who have kids, know, that they inevitably will find and step into left over poop. Not fun.

Make sure to check the ingredients of what you feed your dog

– Don’t let your dog pee on your neighbor’s front lawn. It seriously can destroy the grass and will annoy your neighbor. Find other pee stops somewhere a long your walk (oh, and don’t just dispose poop bags in your neighbor’s trash can without asking).

– Do not let your dog chase any wildlife, not even those pesky Canadian wild geese, at the very least outside of your backyard. Not even on a long line or when there’s no chance, that your dog will actually catch one. Or if you think, your dog only wants to play with them.


Above all, have fun with your dog!


Turning a Rescue into a Rescuer

I often get asked about how to become involved with Search and Rescue. Usually, someone tells me that their dog is the ultimate search machine and will find them/their toy/food in a matter of seconds, no matter where in the house they are. Or they just got a German Shepherd and are now looking for something to do with their dog. Here is some information about what Search and Rescue training entails. First let’s talk about different areas of SAR. These are some of the more common ones:

  • Urban Search and Rescue (Disaster)
    coloradoThese are the teams who are deployed when disaster hits, such as a tornado, hurricane or earthquake. Just hours after the devastating tornadoes hit Oklahoma City in May 2013, multiple disaster dog teams were on scene, working tirelessly to find survivors, buried underneath rubble piles. Often the dogs work independently from their handlers, sometimes, for safety reasons, the handlers are not even close to the dogs. Usually, these dogs have a bark alert, meaning, they will bark to indicate a live victim. Unlike some of the wilderness SAR dogs, they will  not leave the victim and they will wait for the handler to come to them, thus minimizing the risk of navigating the rubble. With the bark alert, they do not need to be in view of their handlers. On occasions, the handler gives the K9 a command to change direction, using hand signals.
  • Avalanche
    Avalanche dogs are trained to find survivors of avalanches. Many sources quote the Swiss army to be the first ones to have trained Avalanche dogs and/or date the first incident of a dog finding survivors in avalanches in the 1930s. However, Barry, a famous St. Bernard from Switzerland, saved many lives back in 1800. Here is another link to the history of St. Bernards as avalanche dogs: Smithonian. I fondly remember visiting Barry, who’s body is an exhibit in the Natural History Museum in Berne, Switzerland. Avalanche dogs have a long history not only in Switzerland but in many other countries, who have snow year-round. These dogs efficiently cover a wide area almost impossible for people to search. Nowhere else is time as much of essence as after an avalanche. 66% of avalanche victims die after within the first 30 minutes (Avalanche Survival Curve).  Avalanche dogs normally start digging as part of their alert.
  • Wilderness/Tracking
    chinoWilderness Search and Rescue is often sent, when hikers have gone missing. In some cases, the teams are looking for physically and/or mentally disabled people (e.g. Alzheimer patients). They have to cover a large, sometimes mountainous area or deep forests. Tracking dogs, much like disaster dogs, do not have a specific person’s scent – they are to find any live person in distress. Unlike disaster and avalanche dogs, they are usually trained not to stay with the victim, but to come back to the handler. Their alert varies, but a common alert is to take an object from their collar into their mouth and bring it to their handler (Bringsel). Tracking dogs often are out of their handlers view, working independently through brushes and obstacles.
  • Wilderness/Trailing
    Just as Tracking dogs, Trailing dogs search for lost persons. The difference is, Tracking dogs are trained to follow a specific odor, making them the number one choice K9s for Law Enforcement searching for criminals. If the dogs are handled by the Police in search of a felon, they are most likely trained to apprehend and bite – unless they are Bloodhounds. In which case the found person may get slobbered. 😉
  • Search and Recovery
    Search and Recovery is just as important as rescuing people. For families and friends, it is crucial to get closure and to be able to recover the body of the missing person. For Law Enforcement, Search and Recovery can solve a crime. Recovery dogs can be trained to find crime scenes, blood, bones (including historic bones, such as old burial grounds, etc.) and dead bodies. Some of these dogs are efficient water dogs, working on boats to find bodies underwater.

All these dogs have one thing in common: they can efficiently do the job of many people and machines. Some say, one dog is as efficient as 150 people. They are able to cover a large ground in a short time. And their noses are an invaluable tool to save lives.

frida20Now we get to the next subject – the dog. Finding anything in the house does not make a dog a blooming star on the K9 SAR sky. Focus and drive are necessary, but also the ability to work independently, fearlessness, balance to navigate difficult terrain (think piles on piles of rubble and wood or fields of snow), willingness to stay on odor and at the victim, be absolutely trustworthy with strangers (solid temperament) and most importantly, work tirelessly and focused even under stress. Ideally, a dog is not older than 2 years, when SAR training starts. Never had a broken limb or a seizure. They can’t be tiny or they won’t be able reach every inch of a rubble pile. They can’t be too big either or they won’t be as agile.

Dogs like that are very, very rare. In fact, if you know of one who’s looking for a home, please don’t hesitate to contact me!  I picked the title ‘Turning a Rescue into a Rescuer’ because many SAR dogs are shelter dogs, rescued from high kill shelters, often dumped there by people, who were not able to handle such energy. One organization who focuses on training such dogs is the non-profit National Search Dog Foundation. They provide trained K9s to handlers from FEMA teams nationwide since 1995.

Now that we established the type of dog we need for SAR, let’s have a look at the other end of the leash, the handler. SAR training and work is not for the couch potatoes, we all know that. But are you able to climb a ladder with your dog on your shoulders? Work hours after hours in burning heat on a pile of broken concrete slabs or dig through a mountain of wood pallets including rusty nails until you’re on top of it?fridawood Hike for days or run through forests, steep hills or ski through treacherous snow? And if the answer is yes, are you ready to commit almost all your free time to training – you and your dog? Spend money on gas and seminars, books and equipment and not ever expect to be paid back? Are you able to leave work on a moment’s notice to be deployed for an unknown amount of days or weeks?

If you are still interested in joining a SAR group, contact your local Sheriff’s department, a fire department or a SAR organization in your area, such as CARDA. They might invite you to take part in their training for a while before they (and you) commit. Many teams will gladly accept help in form of ‘victims’, who pose for their dogs. There is much to be learned while playing victim! Many groups are also always looking for new training grounds. Some teams may have open trainings and often times will allow the public to watch certifications.

For even more in-depth information, click here for an online class about K9 SAR.

Why it is a good idea to not leave a dog in the backyard

Now don’t get me wrong. I do think, most dogs love the outside – at least mine do, and I love the idea to be able to provide my dogs with some off-leash time outside, where they can run, sniff and (yes, admittedly) dig a hole to their hearts desire. But I don’t leave them outside without supervision, or at the very least, I’m always close, listening and ready to react. Here are some reasons why it is not a good idea to leave your dog outside without watching them.

Scaling the Fence

fridajump3No, of course my dogs would not scale our 6-feet fences. Or would they? Well, they have. Fortunately, they know who feeds them and who has their favorite dog bed. They did not stray far. In fact, one staid on the couch, while the other one barked at our neighbor’s door until he opened, where upon she ran past him to play with her friend, the neighbor’s dog. We have since fortified our fences, fixed the whole and now even feature double fences. Even the most balanced, exercised dogs can decide to make a go for it, when they discover a hole or a rotten piece of wooden fence.

We had a crazy person opening backyard doors in the neighborhood where we lived before. So even if your fences are bomb proof, you never know what’s going to happen. Add the hated neighbor cat down the street, a couple of fast cars and you have the recipe for a disaster.

Unwelcome visitors

I would have never thought it would be possible, but this last weekend made me realize, that I have not seen it all. I do not let our dogs lose in our backyard without being very alert to their behavior. When I heard them bark, the thought crossed my mind, that it was just our neighbor, cutting his tree next to our fence, like he did the days before. But the barks sounded different, so I went and looked. I could not see anything, but there were abnormal noises from the neighbor’s side. I decided to take the dogs inside, when all of a sudden I saw a big brown dog scale our fence, which is in itself 6 feet high and on top of that there is a big bush, which adds about another 4 feet. Well, this dog decided to work his way through the bush. Fortunately, I was able to get the dogs inside just before that visitor hit our backyard ground or it would have meant a bloodbath, as my female dog is quite territorial. Here’s the real kicker though – our neighbor does not have a dog! So I never expected danger in form of a dog from this side. A neighbor four doors (and backyards) down, dogsat for a friend, put the dog in his backyard and drove away. Fortunately, the dog had tags with phone numbers on his collar and I was not afraid of him, so the situation got resolved quickly. But I do not want to even imagine what would have happened, if I had ignored my dogs or – even worse – I would have left them outside and went away.

Now, again, I have double fences on all sides, except towards that neighbor, who does not have a dog!

Danger lurking in the backyard

Have you ever replanted something? Used a new fertilizer? Found a dead animal hidden in the bushes of your backyard? Maybe improved the looks of your garden with some fresh mulch? Found some exotic herbs or flowers? Even though your dog may have never dug a hole, ate a plant or munched on freshly added fertilizer, it may just happen. And it might have a catastrophic outcome. I know of a dog who died after drinking from water which was close to a tree, which, after an abnormal amount of rain, was dripping a lot of sap into that water. That particular tree sap was poisonous and unfortunately killed the dog.

Animals, killed by poison such as rat poison, may smell like a delicious in-between meal for our furry friends, but proof to be deadly. While you control the pesticide in your garden, your neighbor might have a different idea of getting rid of unwanted guests. Rats and/or other animals poisoned by your neighbor might end up on your lawn, being a risk for your dogs.

Poisonous risks aside – there are other dangers in your backyard. Even your dog playing with fallen branches from your trees might cause a hefty vet bill, if said branch ends up stuck in your dog’s throat. Or, if your dog wears a collar, he or she might suffocate while being hung somewhere in a bush. Yes, that is a very pessimistic way to spoil the idyllic  picture of dogs happily playing in your backyard, but it might just happen. By the way, there is an easy fix on the collar thing: the breakaway collar still gives you the safety of being able to have a collar (and tags!) on your dog while preventing suffocation accidents.

And everything else

coyoteOh, yes, if you can think of it, it can happen. A couple of months ago, I was just able to get the dogs inside before a huge swarm of bees occupied our backyard. While some of you say, that swarming bees won’t sting anyone, I was not about to try that out with our old man, who loves to snap at everything tiny that’s flying. And we don’t live out in the boonies! What if your dog turns out to be allergic to a bee sting? If you are not scared by bees, what about rattle snakes? Scorpions? Yes, I was laughing at that one, too, until I found one on a walk one day. We live in Southern California, in the suburbs, not on some sort of farm land. You know the dangers of your area best.

What can you do?

Some dogs prefer the outside. Some people prefer the dogs to be outside. It’s all legitimate, if precautions are being taken and it is clear, that there are risks, that may not necessarily be the same for a dog, who has access to the indoors. If a dog is to stay outside, I prefer a nice, safe kennel. When you build it yourself, make sure, you have a solid foundation, don’t just buy a kennel from Home Depot and put it up. Make sure, that you have an area that provides shade at all times and enough water. If your dog stays outside in all weather and day and night, make sure, you provide shelter for your dog, be that from the heat or the cold. Be certain, that the drinking water does not freeze. Personally, I prefer a kennel to be situated, where neither a neighbor nor someone from the street has access to. Yes, I’m paranoid like that.

If you don’t have space for a kennel, check your fences regularly. Make sure, that they are high enough for your dog not to be able to jump over them. Add a second fence for safety, if you think it’s necessary. Check on your dogs often. Make sure they have ample water and shade or shelter from the cold. Know their bark! Learn to distinguish their ‘it’s the mailman’ bark from the ‘there’s an intruder’ or ‘I’m hurt!’ bark. Act fast, when you think there’s something wrong. Let your vet know that your dog has been outside unsupervised if something happens and also inform him or her of any new additions to your backyard (plants, fertilizer, pest control). Use a breakaway collar for your dogs with tags. Microchip your dogs!

Finally, obedience train your dogs and exercise them daily. Tired dogs are less likely to go hunting for neighbor’s cat. They are also less likely to be anxious and scale the fence to go look for you. Obedient dogs will come when you call them and you are more likely to be able to bring them to safety, if some coyotes are wandering into your backyard.

How to Put Together a K9 First Aid Kit

Since I mentioned the K9 First Aid kit in my blog about having an emergency plan for your dog, I have been asked, how to put one together. Putting together your own kit might be cheaper than buying one and you can add to it over time. Here are some important tips and ingredients for your K9 First Aid kit:

1) Only add tools, medications and other things you actually know how to use. While Subcutaneous Fluids look fancy and professional in a kit, it is useless, if you do not know how to actually use it.

Check for mucus membrane color and capillary refill time

2) The best kit will not help you much, if you do not know if your dog is sick or can’t diagnose what is wrong. In order to know that there is something going on with your dog, you need to know your dog. Over a course of a couple of weeks, take your dog’s vital signs every second day: temperature, heartbeat, mucus membrane color and capillary refill time. Check eyes and ears, so that you become familiar with your dog and your dog gets used to a quick health check. Write down the values on a piece of paper. For temperature and heartbeat, repeat the check after exercise and about 10 minutes after exercise to see, how much the levels rise and how fast they go down again. Knowing your dog’s regular body temperature, which can be between 100 and 103 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on breed and individual dog, can help you to quickly diagnose hyperthermia (heat distress and heat stroke) – or hypothermia (core body temperature too cold) and treat it fast. This alone can save your dog’s life! Calculate the average levels of your dog’s vital signs and write them on a piece of paper, which you will keep in your kit. It’s easy to have it laminated at a store like Kinko’s.

3) If your dog has certain conditions, like allergies, seizures, etc., make sure, you have a supply of their medication in your kit. Ask your vet to prescribe you an extra amount, so you can store it in the first aid kit.

4) Here are some basic parts of a K9 First Aid kit:

  • Saline – to wash wounds and eyes
  • Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) – 0.5 to 2mg per pound, every 8 – 12 hours, relieves allergy symptoms. If your dog suffers severe allergies (e.g. bee sting), this will NOT save your dog, but may give you additional time until you are at an emergency clinic.
  • Hydrogen Peroxide – one teaspoon per 10 pounds induces vomiting. Do NOT induce vomiting if your dog is losing consciousness or has ingested anything, that could hurt your dog when coming up (sharp objects, chemicals, etc.). Do NOT use Hydrogen Peroxide for anything else. It has been used for washing wounds in the past, but has now been proven to be ineffective. Instead use an antibacterial spray or cream.
  • Antibacterial wash, spray or cream – do not use a ‘triple antibiotic’ such as Neosporin. Although many dog owners, even veterinaries, recommend it, they can actually be poisonous to dogs. Safe antiseptics to use for dogs are for example Betagen or simply Betadine.
  • Scissors – to cut bandages
  • Bandages (non sticky)
  • Adhesive tape – band-aids won’t stick to the fur
  • Sterile pads and/or Gauze 
  • Alcohol Pads – can help disinfect a small area, but is also poisonous to the dog when ingested.
  • Digital Thermometer – non-digital thermometers contain mercury and can harm you and your dog, if they break. Digital Thermometers are safer and usually faster.
  • Non-latex Gloves
  • Water
  • Tweezers – can be used for ticks or small objects sticking in your dog (e.g. piece of glass in the paws). Do not pull out any bigger objects or objects which are deeply imbedded. Instead secure these objects with gauze or bandages around it and go to the emergency clinic as quickly as possible.
  • Hand Sanitizer
  • Chart with your dog’s normal vital signs and levels – temperature, heart rate, mucus membrane color, capillary refill time
  • List with emergency clinic contacts, Poison Center telephone number, regular veterinary contact

5) And here are some items I pack additionally:

  • White, clean towel – if I suspect my dog having a wound, but I can’t find anything, I can wipe him or her down with a white towel, to find any possible bleeding fast.
  • Muzzle – a dog in pain will bite. It does not matter, if it is your own sweet dog or not. Do NOT muzzle your dog if you induced vomiting, if your dog is losing consciousness, if your dog is in heat distress or has difficulties breathing.
  • Collapsible bowl – can be used as a water bowl
  • Additional leash – a leash can be used as a muzzle
  • Wire cutter – if the dog in distress has a choke chain and the head swells (e.g. due to allergies), the only way to get the collar off, might be the wire cutter.
  • Syringe/Pipette – makes it easier for your dog to swallow Hydrogen Peroxide or other medication.
  • Flashlight
  • Treats – to calm your dog
  • Activated Charcoal – can help with a poisoned dog. Always go to the emergency clinic as fast as you can or call the Poison Center if you suspect poisoning.
  • Styptic Powder – can stop bleeding fast. Only used on small wounds.
  • Honey – is an antibacterial substance that can seal a clean small wound and prevent infection.
  • Survival Blanket – can help a cold dog or a dog in shock
  • Instant Cold Wrap – can numb a painful area and cool down a dog. To cool down a dog in heat distress, do not place cold wrap directly on the fur. Use a towel or bandages and apply between the legs, ears or stomach area. Do not restrict the dog’s mouth or nose.

A good K9 First Aid can save your dog’s life

Check your kit regularly and have an inventory list. This helps you in case of emergency to keep track of what you have and where you have it. Check for expiration dates and replace old products. Take a First Aid class and keep current – you can also keep notes on how to perform K9 CPR, etc. in your kit.

Keep a kit in your car, if you frequently travel with your dog and check with your veterinary for more ideas on what items could be life saving. A K9 First Aid kit is just that: First Aid. Always check with your veterinary or when in doubt, go to an emergency clinic right away. Cuts, abrasions and bruises in your dog’s face may need veterinary checks because of their vicinity of the eyes. Dog bites can leave small but very deep wounds and need to be cleaned very thoroughly. Always keep a close eye to wounds and abrasions, if they do not appear to heal, if the area gets more sensitive or seems swollen, go to a veterinary or emergency clinic.

The number of the Animal Poison Control Center is: 888-4ANI-HELP (888-426-4435) – there is usually a fee for the call.

Growling Dogs – Now What?

Does your pooch turn into a growling mountain of fur when you try to sneak on your favorite place on the couch, where he already awaits? Is your sweet little chihuahua defending your bed – from you or your family?

Clearly, the black dog has had enough! The other dog understands and moves away.

Growling is a vocal form of communication, just like barking or whining. There are different types of growling – those who ever wrestled with a Rottweiler can tell you, that sometimes, a growl is just fun. Some dogs enjoy growling when they are playing, they may also growl, when you try to take away the piece of steak you just put on the plate for your dinner and that they are now happily chewing on. And they may growl, if they encounter a stranger, someone, they have not met before or plainly just don’t like. Even though, for many of us, these growls may sound exactly alike, they are not. In an experiment, two years ago, scientists recorded the three different growls (food growl, play growl and stranger growl) from 20 dogs and replayed these growls to dogs just about to chow down on a bone. If they were replaying the food growl, an astonishing 11 of 12 dogs withdrew from the bone within 15 seconds. Compared to the stranger growl, only 2 of the 12 dogs left the bone and 4 of the 12 dogs left it when they heard the play growl. They also counted, how many dogs would go back to the bone within 90 seconds. 7 of the dogs from the food growl group did not approach the bone, while only one from the stranger growl resp. play growl did not go back. (‘The bone is mine’: affective and referential aspects of dog growls. Farago et al., 2010)

Understanding the correct meaning of your dog growling is essential as your reaction may either escalate into a dangerous situation or simply means, having more fun, romping around with your dog. While you may feel betrayed by your dog growling at you, there are many signs that lead up to that second to final response – your dog may stare at you, ears back, hunkering down, tail wagging stiffly. Oh, yes – the tail may still be wagging, but do not be fooled. In this form, you are about to trigger an explosion. By punishing the growling, you take away an important step from ‘telling you loudly, it’s about to happen’ to ‘happening’. If you have successfully ignored all the signs the dog has given you with his body language, the growl is the one last thing that will stop you from doing what you are about to do.

Guarding the Furniture

While some ‘experts’ will tell you not to accept your dog growling at you and that you need to win this fight by all means, I’d tell them to try and use their methods on a 120 lbs English Mastiff. Even a chihuahua can execute a fast attack on your fingers and be quite painful. What’s more important though, if you have ever been bitten by your dog, your relationship and trust have just been ruined. From that day on, you will look at your dog differently. And your dog will feel this, too. So instead of instigating a situation which will hugely complicated to resolve, not to speak risking bodily injuries, let’s concentrate on defusing it. By the time your dog shows you all the signs including the growl, it is too late to start applying any sort of dominance training methods or much else. I’m neither saying you have to accept this behavior nor to tolerate it. But for that particular instance, there is not much you can do but get yourself and your dog out of this situation. If your dog is defending his place on the bed, get him down by either going into the kitchen and open the fridge (which for my dogs is always a secret sign to stand at the kitchen entrance), call your dog’s name and have treats ready (good ones, like hot dogs…) or, worst case, use a leash, form a loop, throw it over your dogs head and lead him down – the last method is only applicable, if you know that your dog works well on the leash.Do not get too close to your dog, nor bend over him. Do not be emotional, stay neutral, even positive. Once he is off your bed or couch, work some obedience with him and reward for good behavior. Do not let him go back on the furniture!

Luckily, this dog is not aggressive – I simply took a photo of her barking.

If your dog is protecting that piece of steak, let him have it, calm down and work on food aggression from now on, every day! Take away the opportunity for your dog to steal steaks (or anything else for that matter) and start training towards your dog being comfortable with you being close to his possession and even give it up for you.

Now that the situation has been defused, concentrate on what happened before your dog started to growl. If you dog growled because you approached him when he was laying comfortably on your bed, it does NOT mean, that from now on, you should not go near him, when he’s on your bed. Rather you need to work on him not getting on there in the first place – and work on your general relationship.

In all growling cases, except when playing, I strongly urge to consult with a trainer, who has experience with aggressive dogs. While a growl does not make your dog aggressive, experience with such dogs often help to understand the underlying issue and how to deal with it. Be wary of trainers who tell you to wrestle your dog to the ground and ‘show dominance’ or ‘you need to be the [alpha] [pack leader] [first rank] (pick one), try to sell you a training collar without having worked with your dog first – or have you bring the dog to them to keep for several days to weeks to train him at their training facility. While this may be a good idea for seriously aggressive dogs, a dog who growls at you to protect his food, toy or place needs to work with you under the guidance of a trainer.

If your dog is growling at you, your family and friends or strangers repeatedly, it is a serious issue and needs to be dealt with, even if you think, your 10 lbs dog is sweet, trying to protect you from your friend. Often times, it is quite easy to work with a growling dog, but if you wait until the first bite happens, things become a lot more difficult.

Bed Bug Hunting with Dogs

Most people have heard about the steady advancement of bed bugs in our cities. Maybe you have even been a victim of their bites. But did you know that help is on the way in form of our furry, four-legged friends?

Dogs have been trained to detect everything from explosives and narcotics, live human scent in disasters, even sea turtle eggs or e.coli and certain forms of cancer. Now they are being trained for finding live bed bugs – and they come with a powerful weapon! A dog’s mighty sniffer boasts over 200 million olfactory receptors, while ours has a modest 5 million. But that’s not all: the part of a dog’s brain that analyzes scents is roughly 40 times larger than ours. This makes dogs perfect for helping us finding the literal needle in the haystack.

Bed bugs produce a distinctive scent that even we can smell, if the infestation is large enough. Once you have an infestation that big though, it is very difficult to get rid of it. That is why it is so important to catch the creepy crawlies before they multiply. Bed bugs are about as big as an apple seed and do not necessarily stick to your bed area. Dogs can be very effective and find a single bed bug – or even live eggs in a room within minutes. While they certainly are not always 100% spot-on, they are far more effective than any alternative. They are trained to give a specific cue, mostly a passive sit, once they found the requested scent. It’s quite a sight to watch a dog catch a faint whiff and work its way towards the source of the smell. Once found, the dog sits and waits excitedly for the reward – in most cases a toy or food.

It takes special dogs to work day by day, hunting for that specific critter. Typically they are overly active and very focused on either their toy or food – so much so, that they would do anything for it. They can not be fearful or frightened by dark rooms, shiny floors or confined spaces. They should be social, as they will encounter many people during work. Although many people believe, that beagles are the ideal breed for this particular detection, there are many breeds and mixes that work at least as well. The training typically takes 4 – 8 weeks, depending on the dog.

Here are a couple of common bed bug myths:

  • Bed bugs are so small, they cannot be seen by the naked eye.
    This is probably the one line we hear the most. It seems, many people mistake bed bugs for mites. Depending on when their last meal was, they are 3mm to 5mm in size and dark to a lighter brown. They are flat if they haven’t eaten for a while and blow up after a meal. Freshly hatched babies and eggs are more difficult to spot. Bed bugs are not clean and evidence can often be found: shed skins, blood and empty eggs.
  • Throwing cloths and pillows into the freezer for 24 hours will kill bed bugs.
    You may have a chance to freeze the bugs to death if you keep the clothing and pillows in the freezer for several days. A better chance, however, is your dryer – put everything in there and dry it at high temperature. Don’t forget the shoes!
  • Washing the bed sheets will get rid of bed bugs.
    Although this may get rid of the bugs that are on the bed sheets, it is likely, that you have more of the nasty buggers crawling around.

For more information about bed bugs and bed bug detection dogs, visit